![]() ![]() but not too sure that you could get it back out as easy. Or if you think the float is clogged or at fault, you could remove the reservoir and clean it out by putting water and some crushed ice in and giving it a good shaking. If this type fails they tend to go open or short circuit, all or nothing, rather than inaccurate. The temperature gauge is a thermocouple type, so as the temperature rises, it's resistance changes. Not sure it would have any effect on the float, I've never done it. If it's up to the neck it has too much in and needs emptying to the correct level. Did you mean it was up to the KALT/COLD line, or to the actual top of the reservoir neck. In your thread you said the coolant reservoir was full and you could not add any more coolant. ![]() The mixture should contain at least 40% anti-freeze, but not more than 70%. If you think its the float being fouled by something, then perhaps a drain and flush of the cooling system as well at the same time would be a good idea. and the connection to the switch for water ingress. It could be a clogged float assembly,switch fault, switch plug corrosion or trapped wire.Ĭheck the wiring for bad insulation bare wires etc. Part number 4356390 item#8 on the linkġ996 Saab 900 Parts - Saab Parts Distribution - Your Saab Parts Source! Perhaps a trip to a scrap yard would be the least expensive route, although the part appears to be common throughout the years and ranges, it seems not to be reflected in the price. It looks as though a complete reservoir may be needed. I've looked on various sites and so far have not been able to find anything relating to the float or switch being available on their own as a spare part. If a "leak-stop" additive has been added it could be having an affect on the float mechanism. The coolant level will rise in the tank when the engine is up to temperature, but will be within the normal working levels, because even though it's above the max line, the level is to be read when the coolant is cold.Īnother possibility could be the float might be clogged or sticking due to the condition of the coolant. I usually fill mine (when coolant is cold and on level ground) to just below the max line. The switch and float device are on the front of the coolant reservoir. It could also be triggered if the coolant level is close to the minimum amount, and the car is parked facing up a steep hill. This will bring on the "coolant low" on your dashboard. Inside the reservoir tank is a float that will trigger a switch if the coolant level drops below a min level. Sometimes air has been known to get trapped in the heater system, but as yours is working this is not the case. This in turn causes the water level in the reservoir to drop, as does a water leak within the system. If any air is trapped within the system, it usually travels quickly around with the pumped water until it finally reaches the coolant reservoir to be replaced with coolant. Usually if the coolant level (when cold) is on or slightly over the KALT/COLD mark, marked on the reservoir, then all is well with the rest of the system. Is the highest part in the coolant system and is a good indicator for the rest of the system. ![]() Your coolant reservoir (reservoir tank, expansion tank, coolant tank, header tank, water pressure bottle). But if you have not, the following may be of some use. Not sure if you've resolved the problem by now (over the last 7 weeks).
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